Designed for Parents who Know Nothing about Cars.
Read This First. Most parents don't, and that's exactly what some sellers are counting on.
The V5C (the vehicle registration document) is the closest thing a car has to proof of ownership. The registered keeper's name and address should match the person selling it to you. If they don't, you need a very good explanation, because you could be buying a stolen vehicle or one involved in fraud, it's also a good sign they've bought it to sell on for a quick profit potentially not accepting any return from you should the car not start the next day for example.
They produce the V5C immediately, the address matches where you are, and the name matches the person in front of you. The document looks original (not a photocopy) and isn't crinkled or stained/blurred out.
They can't produce the V5C, say it's "lost" or "in the post," Looks like it's been doctored, commonly using Brake Fluid to cause the original ink to appear blurred or smudged to become unrecognisable hiding the fact it may have been a total loss, or the name and address is different from theirs with no clear explanation usually because they're selling it on for quick profit, this will make it difficult to return should something go wrong with it the very next day for example. "V5C green slip only" means you don't know how many previous owners it may have had or if it's a categorised write-off as disclosed on the front of the V5 logbook. The seller wants to flog it off quick because of an underlying problem maybe.. Walk away.. More on this in my £5 Guide
This is one of the most common traps parents fall into. If someone borrowed money against a car and hasn't finished paying it back, the finance company still has a legal claim over that vehicle, even after you've bought it. (Same applies to a logbook loan on the vehicle.) The car isn't theirs to sell. You could hand over your money and then have the car legally repossessed days later, leaving you with nothing. Their towing company will come and lift the car, (keys or not) as it's still effectively theirs.
A confident "no" and ideally, they can show you a settlement letter from the finance company confirming any previous finance has been cleared. For extra peace of mind, always run a HPI or similar vehicle history check (usually around £10) which will flag any outstanding finance.
They seem unsure, get defensive, or you run a history check and it does actually show outstanding finance or any undisclosed damage, even. Do not proceed regardless of what they promise you or how they act, "oh sorry love, I didn't know" usually said with an embarrassed smile. Remember, there are lots of other cars for sale out there, Walk away.. More on this in my £5 Guide
Even a well-repaired car can behave unpredictably in a second collision if the structural repair wasn't done properly. Poor repairs also affect the car's value significantly. You're not necessarily ruling out a car that's been repaired, but you need to know whether it's been done professionally or whether it's been a "back garden bodge" and to pay a fair price if you really want it.
Honest disclosure of any repairs, with receipts or any garage paperwork to back it up. A seller who volunteers this information unprompted is usually more trustworthy overall. Check panel gaps and paint colour consistency yourself, mismatched panels or slightly different paint shades in different light are telltale signs of a repair. (Loads more details and video in my £5 guide.)
They insist the car has never been touched, but a history check shows it has, you can actually see evidence of panel replacement, overspray, or an obvious darker or lighter shade on different panels indicating repair or replacement. If they're lying about this, what else are they potentially lying about? Not sure.. walk away, Simple.
Mileage clocking, winding back the odometer to make a high-mileage car appear lower-mileage is far more common than most people realise, especially with the many plug-in "Mileage Correction" operatives nowadays. A genuine service history with dated receipts from garages lets you verify whether the mileage shown matches the mileage recorded at each service. If the mileage jumps around or doesn't add up, something is very wrong.
A stamped service book with accompanying receipts, where the mileage increases consistently over time and matches the current odometer reading. Electronic service records from franchised dealers are also reliable. The mileage at MOT tests (freely checkable at gov.uk/check-mot-history) is another useful cross-reference.
There's no service history, the mileage figures don't stack up, or they dismiss your concerns about the figures. A car with no history isn't always a bad car, but you're paying blind, and the price should reflect that if you want to go ahead.
This is the most underestimated question on this list. The answer itself matters less than how they answer it. A seller who has owned the car a long time and has a clear, relaxed explanation for selling is very different from someone who bought it three weeks ago and is vague about why they're moving it on so quickly. Short ownership periods on private sales are often a sign that they have discovered an expensive problem and are now trying to "flog it on" quickly for what you may believe to be a bargain.. More on this in my £5 Guide
A natural, consistent explanation, upgrading to a bigger car, no longer needing it, financial change. The story should match the paperwork: if they say they've owned it three years, the V5C should show them as registered keeper for roughly that period.
They've owned it for a very short time and can't give a convincing reason, the story changes when you ask follow-up questions, or the V5C shows a different ownership history from what they've told you. If the seller only has the green tear-off slip, you'll have to apply for a new V5C (currently £25) and you won't know how many previous owners it's had or whether it's been a write-off until the new V5C arrives. Some cars I've seen have had in excess of 20 previous owners AND been both Cat N and S write-offs.
Go to gov.uk/check-mot-history and enter the registration number. You'll see every MOT pass, failure, and advisory notice going back years, including the recorded mileage at each test. This alone will tell you a huge amount about the car's real history before you've even spoken to the seller.
"Those 5 questions can catch a dishonest seller. But most parents don't get burned by scams, they get burned by what they didn't know. The Complete Guide fixes that: 13 in-depth documents and videos, 40+ years in the trade, nothing left to guess."
| ✓ Who this info is for | ✓ Pre-buying research |
| ✓ Sellers, reading them right | ✓ Sales pitch or dealer tactics |
| ✓ Buying from eBay "safely" | ✓ Bodywork and paint checks |
| ✓ Engine inspection guide | ✓ Mileage and service history |
| ✓ Interior checks | ✓ How to test drive "properly" |
| ✓ Turbos explained | ✓ Auction buying guide |
with explainer videos for parents who know nothing about cars
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Always obtain an independent vehicle history check before purchasing any used vehicle.